Full, beautiful lips have always been admired, but in recent years, the pursuit of the "perfect pout" has taken on a new life, fueled largely by social media trends. However, as anyone scrolling through Instagram knows, not every lip enhancement treatment produces flattering, natural-looking results. Overfilled lips, unnatural shapes, and exaggerated appearances often overshadow genuine enhancements. The most successful outcomes are born from thoughtful planning, anatomical understanding, and a focus on proportion over volume.
Let’s demystify what all these “lip trends” are all about.
Lip fillers remain a popular choice for their convenience and immediate impact. Typically made of hyaluronic acid, these injections enhance volume and contour with little downtime—though “little” can still mean a few days of swelling. A big date, meeting, or weekend trip might need to be rescheduled, so it’s smart to plan fillers 1–2 weeks before any major event.
Fillers, as the name suggests, “fill” by adding volume. They follow the natural shape of the lips and aren’t designed to change it. For example, if the cupid’s bow is flat or missing, filler won’t be able to create one. However, filler can improve upper-to-lower lip balance, which can still make a noticeable difference.
Fillers are measured in syringes—each containing just 1cc (or 1 milliliter) of gel-like product, which is about one-fifth of a teaspoon. It’s a surprisingly small amount that can make a noticeable difference when placed precisely.
A great example of naturally beautiful lips with healthy volume. The soft vertical lines and gentle texture are normal features of the lip’s surface and add to their natural look. Lips that appear overly full or too glossy often lose this detail and can look artificial—something I usually advise against for those wanting a more natural appearance.
For the right candidate—someone with thinning, deflation, or fine lines—lip fillers can restore the natural fullness and smoothness of earlier years. I say restore intentionally: it means returning the lips to how they once looked. When done right, this looks natural and nearly undetectable. Enhancement, on the other hand, means creating a fuller, poutier version—often the goal for younger patients without signs of lip aging. This can still look balanced and beautiful, but it’s a different intention.
This is an example of moderate lip thinning. The lips show pronounced creases and grooves on the pink surface. There is noticeable loss of outward fullness typical in youthful lips. However, the cupid’s peaks and pink show from right to left are well preserved. There is no significant thinning or inward collapse. A case like this would benefit from lip filler. Usually, one syringe of hyaluronic acid filler restores volume while keeping a natural look.
That said, the ease of filler can be a double-edged sword. Without a clear understanding of lip anatomy or a restrained approach, results can skew too puffy or even distorted. I often see patients for filler refinement or reversal after subtle intentions turn into something that looks totally overdone. My philosophy is simple: moderation and intention matter. Fillers work best as restorations of lip volume loss or modest enhancements—not attempts to create entirely new lips. If the look you’re after can’t be achieved with 1–2 syringes, volume likely isn’t the issue.
Let’s talk about the lip flip. It’s a quick treatment that uses a few units of neurotoxin to relax the muscle above the upper lip, causing it to roll outward slightly. You might see a lift of a millimeter or two—just enough to notice at the right angle or when you smile. It’s subtle, and for some, that’s enough. But, read on for my perspective...
A lip flip is subtle and often hard to see in photos. I look for defined cupid’s bow peaks, like in this image, as a sign of a good result. To see the effect, try gently pressing above your upper lip with a Q-tip in the mirror—it rolls the lip slightly upward and outward without adding volume, making it look a bit taller. While it can be done to the lower lip too, I don’t recommend it unless someone has already tried an upper lip flip and is comfortable with the muscle relaxation it causes.
This technique was originally used for decades to soften very noticeable vertical lip lines in older patients with strong upper lip muscles—think of it like treating the crow’s feet of the mouth. These lines were often called “lipstick lines” or “smoker lines”. Then younger patients learned that it could also “flip” the lip up and out a touch, and suddenly it became very trendy. It’s likely gained market popularity because a lip flip is a cost-effective and low-commitment option for younger patients who aren’t quite ready for something more powerful and lasting, like lip filler.
Here’s the reality: it can make drinking from a straw feel strange, it weakens the upper lip, and some patients really don’t like the sensation. Lip flip results typically last just 4 to 6 weeks. For something that requires such frequent maintenance, it’s not a favorite stand-alone treatment in my practice. As an adjunct—like when paired with laser resurfacing during the healing phase—it has a role. But in my experience, it doesn’t deliver in terms of longevity or impact.
Unlike fillers, a lip lift is a permanent surgical procedure that enhances the shape and position of either the upper or lower lip—most commonly the upper lip. By shortening the philtrum—the distance between the base of the nose and the top of the lip—the procedure increases the visible pink area of the upper lip. This adjustment improves the overall balance of the lower face, revealing more of the upper teeth when speaking or smiling, and creating a more youthful, lifted appearance without the look of an overly long or drooping upper lip.
Lip lift surgery often focuses on revealing the upper teeth. A subtle show of white upper teeth at rest is considered attractive. During evaluation, we look at how the lips relate to the teeth when smiling and relaxed. When the upper teeth are completely hidden by the upper lip, this is a relatively strong indication for an upper lip lift procedure.
Surgery is not something to take lightly and requires an accurate diagnosis. A lip lift is similar in concept to a facelift or brow lift: it addresses an area that appears out of proportion, too long, heavy, or affected by gravity. Lifting can be so transformative. Research even suggests that the amount of visible pink lip is a quick visual cue the human eye uses to assess youthfulness, independent of the rest of the face! Importantly, surgery is one of the few ways to actually change the shape of the lip. Whether it’s creating a more defined Cupid’s bow, lifting downturned corners, or correcting significant asymmetry caused by genetics, trauma, or prior surgery, a lip lift can address structural concerns that fillers simply cannot.
This photo shows severe thinning of both the upper and lower lips in a male. The upper lip appears flat and elongated. While this is not my patient, I can extrapolate findings from this photo to say that surgical lip lift would help restore taller, more youthful lips with more pink show. Technique choice depends on facial hair, mouth corners, lower lip shape, and the patient’s style and goals.
Because the lip lift targets foundational issues rather than volume, it often provides a more anatomical and natural correction of lip aging when performed by a skilled surgeon with an artistic eye. Many patients who have been disappointed by nonsurgical options or filler treatments seeking to “fix too much” would benefit from considering surgery as a definitive solution rather than filling over and over again. Simply put, a lip lift addresses issues that go beyond the simple problem of filler-driven volume.
Sometimes, one treatment does not get the cause of someone’s lip appearance. If the diagnosis involves lip sagging and gravitational aging as well as lip volume depletion, as it often does, then a combined approach is the correct one. A lip lift in this case will provide the foundational solution to an excessively long lip by lifting and reshaping the lip itself—addressing issues like excess philtrum length, asymmetry, cupid bow height, and drooping corners. A lip lift, as you may see, is a highly nuanced procedure, and there is absolutely no “one-size-fits-all” approach to lip lift surgery. However, even after surgery, adding a small amount of filler can further enhance the lips by restoring subtle volume, softening the delicate lines or creases, and giving the lips a more polished finish.
This photo shows significant upper lip asymmetry, with the left side appearing wider and more droopy than the right. The upper lip skin is also elongated, with fine lines and volume loss. While not my patient, a case like this would require a combination of treatments to address asymmetry (surgery), deflation (volume), and wrinkles (neurotoxin and/or laser skin resurfacing).
When timed and tailored properly, this combination offers superior control, precision, and longevity. Rather than relying solely on fillers—which can risk overfilling, distortion, and reduced natural lip movement—using fillers as a complementary step helps maintain lip elasticity and a balanced, natural appearance. In my practice, about 80% of patients over 45 years old are candidates for some type of lip lift, with that number only increasing with more advanced ages. This applies to both men and women seeking subtle, “barely-there” rejuvenation. Looking natural isn’t about choosing “one” or “fewer” treatments; it’s about identifying the right approach for the anatomy—even if it means a slightly longer journey.
No two lips are the same, which is why I carefully evaluate lip length, volume, skin quality, symmetry, and how the lips relate to the rest of the face during every consultation. I listen closely to what my patients see and feel is missing, as their goals often lead to solutions different from what they initially expected.
Lip enhancement is a category—not a trend to follow—and I believe the best starting point is simply looking in the mirror and reviewing a full set of photos. I’m often just as amazed as my patients by what we uncover when examining the lips and mouth from different angles. Never base decisions on a single selfie, smile, or snapshot. The lips are complex—they appear a certain way both dynamically and at rest—and a thoughtful, detailed evaluation is essential. During your consultation, we’ll go through a comprehensive list of findings. When done well, lips shouldn’t steal the spotlight—they should blend seamlessly with the face. That balanced and refreshed result - “Was anything really done here or not?” kind of questioning - is always my goal.
Lip enhancement isn’t just about adding volume—it’s about structure, proportion, a touch of artistry, and restraint. Each trending procedure has its place, but real, lasting results come from thoughtful planning and the right combination of treatments for your unique features. With a customized approach and a skilled eye, the most natural-looking lips leave people wondering if anything was done at all.
Beautiful lips are neither too bold nor too subtle. They’re part of a balanced harmony—from the eyes to the cheeks to the chin. Lips don’t steal the show—they complete it.
In not so many words...
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